Salicylic acid! Amazing ingredients

Salicylic acid is an important organic synthetic material, which is widely used in medicine, pesticide, rubber, dye, food and spice industries. In the pharmaceutical industry, salicylic acid is mainly used to produce sodium salicylate, holly oil (methyl salicylate), aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), salicylic acid amine, phenyl salicylate, etc. In the dye industry, it is used to produce mordant pure yellow, direct yellow 3GN, direct yellow GR, direct brown 3GN, acid mordant brown G, acid mordant yellow GG, acid complex yellow and other dyes. In pesticide production, salicylic acid is used to synthesize isopropyl salicylate, an intermediate of organophosphorus pesticides, isocarbophos and methyl isocyanate, as well as 4-hydroxycoumarin, an intermediate of rodenticide warfarin and warfarin. In the rubber industry, it is used as an anti coke agent and a UV absorber and a foaming agent. Spice raw materials, preparing methyl salicylate, ethyl salicylate, etc; Food preservatives are mostly sodium salts, which have been banned in some countries; Methyl salicylate can be used as oral cleaner, such as toothpaste perfume.

　　"Terrific ingredients"
　　No efficacy, no skincare. At the top of the wave of effective skincare, raw material innovation is the focus of all brands, and a number of ingredients with strong efficacy potential are surfacing, such as Dendrobium extract, Glycyrrhizin, Arbutin, etc. The "Amazing Ingredients" article series will focus on these ingredients and analyze their application status and development trend.
　　The "golden oil" of the skin care industry.
　　"Salicylic acid is probably the most successful skin care ingredient in history because of its long history, wide range of use, and excellent results." The country's leading skin care experts, ice cold laboratory founder ice cold, gave salicylic acid such a high evaluation.
　　As the "darling" of the beauty industry, salicylic acid has the reputation of "universal oil", and "acne", "whitening "and other effects deeply bound, the last two years also get more and more attention.
　　However, in August last year, the State Drug Administration (SDA) published a scientific article "Scientific understanding of "acid brushing" beauty", which threw a pot of cold water on acid-containing cosmetics, once triggering a discussion on "acid brushing cosmetics to cool off" (see "Acid brushing cosmetics to cool off?"). .
　　Now, Cosmetics Watch has found that salicylic acid has not been shaken, and its use in cosmetics is still growing steadily. According to the "2022 Explosive Efficacy Ingredients List and Trend Forecast" released by Beauty Fix BEBD Big Data, salicylic acid ranks first in the number of brands associated with potential ingredients.
　　Also according to user-said statistics, salicylic acid skincare products topped the acid list in 2021, and in 2022 the fever is increasing instead of decreasing, with related new products coming out all the time. For example, Rock Zoo launched a new product "Rock Zoo Multi Acid Satin Body Essence Milk" in March this year, and Bison's Research launched a new product "Salicylic Acid Pore Clarifying Cleansing Honey" in July.
　　A number of industry insiders pointed out that the heat of the brush acid beauty may be fading, but the application of salicylic acid in skin care has taken deep roots, "Next, the application of salicylic acid in cosmetics will be further expanded, that is, towards everyday".
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　　High-quality efficacy products at the innovation exhibition 8 years of precipitation, skin care technology into the "space 2.0 era" R & D strength to support
　　The C position in "acid"
　　The number of records increased by nearly 70% year-on-year
　　The public's perception of salicylic acid is largely derived from the brush acid beauty.
　　The above-mentioned science article "Scientific Understanding of "Acid Brush" Beauty" clearly points out that the so-called "acid brush" is actually a kind of chemical peeling, also known as chemical peeling, which is the application of chemical agents on the skin surface, resulting in controlled skin damage and then promoting new skin regeneration. It is worth noting that "acid treatment" needs to be carried out by trained professionals in a medically qualified hospital or beauty institute.
　　In other words, acid brushing was previously a skin treatment project in the medical beauty market, but in recent years, with the boom in cosmetic market efficacy skin care, the trend of "acid brushing" began to scrape stronger and stronger in the cosmetics market, and the use of "acid" in daily skin care also began to expand. The popular article, however, has put the "reins" on the efficacy claims of some acid-containing cosmetics. The article clearly points out that acid-containing cosmetics are fundamentally different from "acid therapy" and should not be claimed as "peels" to mislead consumers. Only some medical "acids" can be added to cosmetics, for example, salicylic acid and fruit acids.
　　Although the science article "scientific understanding of "acid" beauty" to the acid cosmetics cooled down, but salicylic acid has not been affected, still among the acid in the C position.
　　According to the "2022 Beauty Ingredient Trend Insight Report" issued by Macro Engine, salicylic acid was ranked among the TOP 6 of the "TOP 50 ingredients hot list" and the TOP 14 of the "TOP 50 ingredients potential list", with a much higher attention rate than Centella asiatica, ceramide, fission yeast and other star ingredients. The attention is much higher than the star ingredients such as Centella asiatica, ceramide and bifidum. Salicylic acid was also listed in the "Top 30 ingredients of 2022" and "Potential ingredients of 2022" released by BEBD, ranking 8th and 4th respectively.
　　On the record, cosmetics with salicylic acid are also growing at a high rate. According to the BEBD data, in 2021, the use of salicylic acid in new beauty products for the record grew by more than 20% year-on-year, second only to Boswellin and Ectoine.
　　In the current filing of valid goods as of September 26, the total number of goods containing salicylic acid ingredients is 18,831, with an annual ringgit growth of 66.12%. The brands and factories using the ingredient also gained double-digit growth, including 7475 brands and 2085 factories, with annual year-over-year growth of 59.84% and 39.06%, respectively.
　　Feedback to the market side, more and more brands began to layout this track. Cosmetics Watch searched for "salicylic acid" on the Tmall platform, showing that there are nearly 20,000 related cosmetic products, including national brands such as Winona, Perrier, HFP, Bollorda, and many international brands such as L'Oreal Paris, Clinique, Lancôme, and Paula Jane.
　　Among them, many brands also with "salicylic acid" for a deep binding. For example, the American skincare brand Paula Jane has launched a number of series of salicylic acid products, covering toner, body lotion, serum and other categories, its official Tmall flagship store shows that the star single product "Paula Jane salicylic acid serum" listed two years a cumulative total of 1.25 + million pieces sold, and selected as " The Tmall list - oil control essence hot list" No. 1; Bollorda launched different concentrations of salicylic acid product matrix, such as "Bollorda nourishing conditioning mask" claimed to contain 2% salicylic acid, "Bollorda nourishing moisturizing care cream" The "Boleda Nourishing & Toning Mask" claims to contain 0.5% salicylic acid to meet the needs of consumers with different skin types.
　　The factory side also started to increase the R&D and production of salicylic acid products. Beautiful repair BEBD big data show that Nosebel, Cosmosis, Ba Wei and other well-known OEM giants, the past two years have been intensively launched salicylic acid-related products, including Cosmosis of the number of related products in the past three years compound growth rate nearly doubled.
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　　Quality efficacy products at the innovation exhibition 8 years of precipitation, skin care technology into the "space 2.0 era" R & D strength to support
　　Skincare industry "a million dollar oil"
　　Facing two major "roadblocks"
　　From the medical acid after layers of screening can be used in cosmetics acid raw materials, why salicylic acid is the most widely used?
　　Public information shows that hundreds of years ago, people found that willow bark boiled water has anti-inflammatory and antipyretic effect, and finally in 1838 confirmed the active ingredient is salicylic acid. After further research, scientists found that salicylic acid can both soften the stratum corneum and loosen the corns to unclog the pores, as well as certain antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, which have a significant improvement on the skin.
　　"Salicylic acid efficacy comprehensive and high popularity, can effectively improve a series of problems caused by skin keratin deposition", industry senior product manager Guo Xiaofeng analysis, keratin exfoliation can promote epidermal cell renewal, so that the skin dull yellowing problems caused by keratin deposition, acne problems caused by follicular lipid oxidation, can be effectively improved by salicylic acid Salicylic acid is an effective way to improve the skin.
　　"Salicylic acid is known as the skin care industry's 'universal oil', a very wide range of uses." A factory manager, salicylic acid can be used for as many as eight purposes, both as a skin conditioning agent, antiseptic, but also as a keratin exfoliator and anti-acne agent. Salicylic acid in the market end of the application can also confirm this. Currently, there are a large number of salicylic acid-based cosmetics on the market, both claiming to cleanse, control oil, exfoliate and eliminate acne, and also claiming to whiten and anti-wrinkle.
　　But what the cosmetics industry loves and hates is that although salicylic acid is powerful, it is somewhat irritating and was once caught in a negative whirlwind.
　　In 1998 or so, the application of salicylic acid was just introduced to China, and the wide range of applications and non-compliant operations led to a large number of adverse reactions, and the saying "salicylic acid disfigures the face" spread, and foreign cosmetic companies had no choice but to give salicylic acid the nickname "BHA This was the reason why foreign cosmetic companies had no choice but to give salicylic acid the nickname "BHA" to avoid the products being rejected by the market for containing "salicylic acid".
　　Based on this, the application of salicylic acid in cosmetics has strict use restrictions and technical requirements. According to the "Technical Specification for Cosmetic Safety (2015 Edition)", salicylic acid is listed as a "cosmetic restricted component", with a maximum allowable concentration of 2.0% for residual products and drenching skin products, and 3.0% for drenching hair products. In addition to shampoos, salicylic acid should not be used in products for children under the age of three; products containing salicylic acid should be labeled "Contains salicylic acid, do not use by children under the age of three" and other tips.
　　Cut from "Safety Technical Specification for Cosmetics (2015 Edition)
　　The harsh application conditions have become another shortcoming of salicylic acid that cannot be ignored. Ice cold analysis, on the one hand, salicylic acid is relatively strong irritation, and the pH value is particularly low, making it difficult to match with other substances; on the other hand, salicylic acid is difficult to dissolve, insoluble in water and only slightly soluble in oil, "the application conditions are more demanding, limiting its application in cosmetics.
　　"In short, it is the balance of efficacy and irritation problem." Ltd. formulator Du Xingwei pointed out that how to make salicylic acid become mild, but also to ensure that the efficacy is not compromised, is the main problem faced by companies in the development of salicylic acid-related products.
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　　High-quality efficacy products at the innovation exhibition 8 years of precipitation, skin care technology into the "space 2.0 era" R & D strength to support
　　Exclusive technology is the key
　　It is entering the "application expansion period"
　　Although there are still safety risks and technical difficulties in the application of salicylic acid, many industry players are still optimistic about its future development.
　　"The use of salicylic acid cosmetics, not to achieve the effect of medical cosmetic brush acid, but in the softening of the skin, acne prevention, etc., has a consumer-friendly effect," in Du Xingwei's view, effective, safe and affordable products, will continue to maintain growth.
　　Guo Xiaofeng also holds the same view, "medical brush acid is not going to be a high frequency daily choice, both in terms of audience, risk, and cost, and for some consumers with oily acne skin, skin care products containing salicylic acid are just what is needed".
　　"The acne problem of consumers is always present and serious, salicylic acid is a good choice, but how to do it safely and effectively is the core problem that needs to be solved." Beautiful repair partner Xu Hong admits, salicylic acid if you want to further expand the market application, but also need to make efforts in scientific research.
　　"Due to the strong irritation of salicylic acid, its application breakthrough lies in the technology, who has mastered the exclusive technology, will be able to grasp the first opportunity", Guo Xiaofeng also said. Cosmetics Watch found that many well-known brands do rely on exclusive patented technology in salicylic acid skin care products to make a name for themselves.
　　According to reports, with the development of technology, salicylic acid in cosmetics application technology after alcohol-based salicylic acid, water-oil mixture of salicylic acid, is now widely used is wrapped salicylic acid, 3D three-dimensional salicylic acid technology, the ultimate goal is to be gentle and effective.
　　"For the salicylic acid market, it has reached a relatively mature cycle, but the penetration rate of the product has not yet reached the peak, so there is still a little space", in Guo Xiaofeng's view, objective, rational and scientific market promotion and consumer education is the key, "neither exaggerate its effectiveness, nor talk about acid ".
　　According to personal push big data, consumers' cognitive level of ingredients is gradually rising, and the percentage of ingredient party among consumers in 2022 is as high as 52%, compared to the brand, the product's ingredient formula and actual efficacy become their focus. The "2022 Ingredient Life Cycle Curve" released by Beauty Fix also shows that salicylic acid has passed the "concept popularization period" and is moving towards the "application expansion period".
　　"With the development of technology, salicylic acid products can be seen more and more widely used in daily care, the fierce marketing of acid is greatly reduced, which is also the recent trend of acid cosmetics, that is, towards daily use. A senior R&D engineer said so.